Men's Style Blog
Section: Men's Style - Blog
Why let a pushy salesperson take advantage of your lack of fabric knowledge to sell you something inferior? We've condensed everything you need to know into 5 simple things to help you pick the best fabric for your next men's suit. Step number 3? Weave.
Is a tweed suit better than a twill suit? In fact, what’s the difference between twill and tweed, and why should I care? You can dress sharper and feel more confident when you know a few basics about one of a suit’s foundation building blocks: fabric weave. Here’s all you need to know.
To make sure you get top quality at a great price - every time you buy a suit - remember these five things:
1. Colour
2. Composition
3. Weave
4. Pattern
5. Weight
In this article, we'll discuss the importance of fabric weave.
The thread count of a men's suit fabric determines:
When it comes to suiting fabrics, thread count is referred to as the “Super” number.
The Super count refers to the thickness of the wool thread and the higher the count, the finer, lighter, more luxurious and expensive the fabric. But there's no need choose a fabric with an extremely high thread count because while wool marked as Super 180s and above is luxurious and soft to the touch, it is also susceptible to snagging and its durability is generally not as good. However, it sure does look and feel like a million bucks!
So if you're wondering where to start, here are some basic rules:
These are durable entry-level wool fabrics, great for business suits and everyday suits.
These suiting fabrics offer great quality, durable wool with superior fall over Super 80s - 90s; ideal for business suits and everyday suits.
When you step up to these fabrics, you'll get good quality, fine and smooth durable wool, edging into the luxurious with exceptional fall. Ideal for business suits, blazers and everyday suits.
These luxurious textiles are made of fine, light and smooth wool and are perfect for executive business suits, wedding suits, dinner suits and tuxedos.
The next thing to consider is the way the fabric (regardless of thread thickness and ply) is woven together.
There are thousands of different ways of weaving cloth, each with its own name. Fortunately, most men's suits utilize a handful of common production methods and standard materials. Some terms refer entirely to the material used, others designate a specific woven pattern, and a few designate both at once.
Plain Weaves
The simplest cloth to construct is a plain weave. Did you ever weave potholders, baskets or some other handicraft project involving interwoven straps as a child? If you did, you made a plain weave because any weave where the threads pass alternatingly over and under one another is a plain weave.
This creates a cloth that is identical on both sides; it is commonly done in wool to produce the cloth for suit jackets and trousers. Virtually any thread can be used to make a plain weave, although worsted wool — a specific type of yarn in which the wool fibers lie alongside one another in long bundles — is traditional used for suits and produces a very strong and comfortable fabric.
If you hold a plain weave fabric up to the sun, you'll see light shining through. This is because plain weaves are typically not woven tightly and thus allow air to pass through them freely.
Twill Weaves
A more complicated form of weaving involves off-setting the thread each time it passes under a thread or group of threads running in the other direction. This process creates the twill family of weaves.
Twill woven cloth has a distinct diagonal pattern to it so it always looks different on one side. Most men will recognize the slanted pattern of a twill weave in their blue jeans or in modifications such as the decorative herringbone (repeated V-shapes or chevrons in the fabric) and houndstooth.
Many fabrics are characterised both by being twill-woven and by using a specific material; chino, for example, is a soft cloth made from twill-woven cotton.
A tight twill weave in worsted wool is used to create the tough fabric known as gabardine, which is still used by some high-quality tailors to make the pockets of their bespoke suits.
What does all this information boil down to? While there are thousands of fabric weaves from which to choose, you can satisfy most of your wardrobe needs by sticking to either a plain or twill weave textile. VisitMontagio Custom Tailoring for great business suits for men and let us help you choose the best fabric weave to suit your style.
Image source blog.fabricmartfabrics.com.
With over 20,000 satisfied clients, Montagio's distinction as the top-rated tailor in Sydney and Brisbane is no coincidence. Our success lies in our commitment to personalisation, ensuring each suit is a true reflection of the individual wearing it. Unlike others, we focus on providing unparalleled service, meticulous attention to detail, and an array of bespoke options, making every Montagio suit a testament to quality and individuality. If it lacks that personal touch, it simply isn't Montagio.
Behind every Montagio suit is a team of expert tailors dedicated to precision, craftsmanship, and personal service. Get to know the masters who bring your vision to life, ensuring every suit is as unique as the person wearing it.
James Goodchild
With over 15 years of experience in suiting and 8 years at Montagio, James Goodchild has custom-fitted over 3,000 suits, achieving $8 million in lifetime sales and earning a reputation as a trusted bespoke tailoring expert. Passionate about bold statement suits and meticulous craftsmanship, he believes true greatness lies in integrity and influence, much like a well-tailored suit that leaves a lasting impression.
Book @ Sydney
Aaron Bry
Aaron began his career in 2002 and has deep expertise in tailoring and luxury menswear, achieving multi-million-dollar sales and earning induction into MJ Bale’s Million Dollar Club... twice. Now converted to custom, he is committed to excellence in both style and service and believes in always being impeccably presented. Outside of work, he enjoys bodybuilding and films, often described as a 'gentle giant' for his approachable nature.
Book @ Sydney
Raul Rodriguez
Raul is an experienced tailor with a deep passion for bespoke suiting, combining precision, craftsmanship, and a keen eye for detail to create impeccably fitted garments. Known for his ability to blend classic tailoring with bold, modern touches, he works closely with clients to craft suits that reflect their personality and style. For Raul, a well-made suit is more than clothing - it’s a statement of confidence, sophistication, and individuality.
Book @ Brisbane
Named in GQ Magazine's "Best Tailors" list, and the highest reviewed tailor on Google, Montagio has paved the way for discerning men to get suited up with style. A truly personalised experience, we deliver perfectly fitted bespoke suits, shirts and coats for business, weddings, formal and casual events. Our showrooms are packed with designs that inspire and thousands of fabrics, making it easy for you to get the look you want. Our difference? We won't let you walk out until we've tailored your perfect garment. It's personal. To experience Montagio's red-carpet service, book your personal appointment today.
