Men's Style Blog
Section: Everything Else - Blog
Getting the right length suit jacket can make all the difference between your suit looking incredibly tailored, or it looking out of proportion to your body.
The traditional rules of thumb of having your jacket just covering your rear, or the bottom edge of your jacket resting in your hand when your fingers are curled up, is actually quite outdated with today’s fashion and could lead to you getting an oversized suit jacket.
So how long should your suit jacket be?
As a general rule of thumb your suit jacket length should end 1-1.5 inches above the bottom of your crotch. The bottom of the jacket should be closer to the bottom of the trouser crotch than it is to your belt line, otherwise you risk the jacket looking too short.
Shorter and leaner body types can benefit from a slightly shorter jacket length whilst taller and stockier body types can benefit from a slightly longer jacket length.
Ultimately, the right length comes down to personal preference and a quality tailor can advise you on the best length for your body.
Modern tailoring allows for variation based on your proportions, and a skilled tailor can properly balance length with your dimensions, whether tall or short-statured. Overall, there is no single length standard.
An expert fitting considers multiple factors to achieve a tailored, balanced look catered perfectly to each individual wearer.
The most optimal length creates smooth, balanced lines from shoulders to hips and sleeves to wrists.
At Montagio our custom fittings allow our experienced tailors to fine-tune length and other details for a perfect custom look.
Let’s take a closer look from top to bottom in this suit jacket length guide.
The fit of a suit jacket plays a significant role in creating a polished and professional impression. Knowing the proper lengths and proportions can considerably enhance your overall appearance.
Various factors influence the proper length of a suit jacket, primarily how a jacket should "fit" you.
One of the best starting points for jacket length is to look at the position of your crotch and line up your jacket accordingly. As a general rule of thumb, your suit jacket should end 1-1.5 inches above the bottom of your crotch. The bottom of the jacket should be closer to the bottom of the trouser crotch than to your belt line; otherwise, you risk the jacket looking too short.
Where the crotch of the trousers is, the jacket should finish a little above or an inch above the crotch height, depending on your build. This creates a balanced look that enhances your proportions.
While this is a great starting place for jacket length you might also want to make adjustments to your jacket based off your body type, as different jacket lengths look more flattering for different body types.
A simple but critical point: your jacket's length and fit significantly affect your overall style. Unfortunately, many of us get it a bit wrong and select a jacket that's either too short or too long for our individual body type, resulting in an unflattering look.
Every body is unique. You might have broad shoulders, long legs, wide calves, a muscular build or perhaps you’re more stocky but still want your suit to look flattering to your waistline. If you struggle with these features when buying clothes our tailoring can help you achieve a perfect fit.
Click here to book in a free fitting appointment with one of our styling specialists and we’ll ensure you get a perfectly fitting suit that is exactly the right size for your body.
Length Recommendation: If you have a short and broad build, your jacket should be slightly longer, with the bottom aligning with the crotch.
When you have a broad torso without much tapering, the extra length helps create the illusion of an hourglass silhouette.
This tapering effect is essential to avoid a boxy look, which can detract from the overall aesthetic of the suit. A longer jacket draws the eye downward, elongating the torso and providing a balanced appearance.
Length Recommendation: For those with a short and lean build, the regular recommendation is to have the jacket end 1-1.5 inches above the crotch.
Exposing more of your trousers makes your legs appear longer, which can give the impression of added height.
You can afford a shorter jacket because your natural taper eliminates the need to create the illusion of tapering. Additionally, the shorter length complements your lean physique, adding a modern touch to your overall look.
Length Recommendation: For individuals with a tall and broad build, it is recommended to choose a jacket that is slightly longer, ending closer to the bottom of the crotch or in line with it.
This is similar to shorter, broader individuals, the extra length helps balance your proportions and prevent a boxy appearance.
A longer jacket elongates the torso and creates a cohesive look that complements your height and breadth. This approach ensures that your suit looks well-fitted and polished.
Length Recommendation: The jacket length for a tall and lean build is largely a matter of personal preference, either in line with the crotch or 1-1.5 inches above.
Given your height, you'll appear tall regardless of the jacket length. The choice depends on where you wear your pants and the length of your torso.
A shorter jacket can highlight your lean frame, while a longer jacket can add a touch of classic elegance. Chat with our tailors at Montagio to determine whether a slightly longer or shorter jacket works best for your proportions.
Length Recommendation: For those with a broader midsection, a longer jacket, potentially extending past the crotch line, is recommended.
A longer jacket that flares out slightly at the hem can create the illusion of tapering at the centre, making the midsection appear smaller.
This creates a more appealing silhouette and helps balance your proportions. In addition, the lengthened jacket improves comfort and style by being more fitted across the midsection.
The height at which you wear your trousers can significantly impact the visual balance of your jacket and overall outfit.
If you wear your trousers higher, a shorter jacket might be more appropriate to maintain proper proportions.
Conversely, if you want a shorter rise, a longer jacket can help keep your style consistent and balanced.
The rise of your trousers determines where the jacket ends in relation to your pants, which affects the harmony of your outfit.
A high-rise trouser can make your legs appear longer, so a shorter jacket can be a stylish choice.
A low-rise trouser, on the other hand, might require a longer jacket to avoid a fragmented appearance and to allow your jacket to adequately cover the waistline.
The proportions between your torso and legs are crucial in deciding the ideal jacket length, ensuring the most flattering fit. This requires the expert eye of an experienced tailor to achieve the best results.
Consulting with a tailor is crucial to achieving the perfect jacket length, as they can provide personalised advice based on your unique body proportions.
Ultimately, go with your style and your tailor’s advice to match your desired look. At Montagio, we specialise in styled jackets that can be adjusted according to your proportions.
The most optimal length creates smooth, balanced lines from shoulders to hips and sleeves to wrists. At the end of the day, you want something that flatters your body while remaining comfortable
See our client case study:
Consider the case of a customer who came in wearing a jacket that was 5-6 inches longer than what we’d typically recommend.
The long jacket made the customer look shorter than he actually was. While our suggestion was to go much shorter, we compromised on a jacket that was 1-1.5 inches shorter than the one he was wearing. This compromise length helped improve his overall look without making him feel uncomfortable.
Personal preference plays a significant role in tailoring decisions. Some customers are accustomed to a certain style or length, even if it may not be what we consider to be the most flattering.
At the end of the day, you want a suit that you feel like your best self in. We ensure all our customers get a suit that respects their individual taste while refining their appearance.
At Montagio, we understand the importance of a well-fitted suit jacket. Our custom fittings allow us to create a perfectly tailored jacket to your body type and style preferences. Whether it is business suits or custom wedding suits, let us help you prepare for the next special event or even if you’re looking to update your wardrobe, our experienced tailors are here to help you achieve a look that’s both stylish and comfortable.
With our expert craftsmanship and attention to detail, you’ll leave feeling and looking your best.
Click here to book a free fitting appointment with one of our styling specialists and we’ll ensure you get a perfectly fitting suit that is exactly the right size for your body.
Transform your wardrobe with a look that's uniquely yours, crafted by our skilled tailors.
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With over 20,000 satisfied clients, Montagio's distinction as the top-rated tailor in Sydney and Brisbane is no coincidence. Our success lies in our commitment to personalisation, ensuring each suit is a true reflection of the individual wearing it. Unlike others, we focus on providing unparalleled service, meticulous attention to detail, and an array of bespoke options, making every Montagio suit a testament to quality and individuality. If it lacks that personal touch, it simply isn't Montagio.
Named in GQ Magazine's "Best Tailors" list, and the highest reviewed tailor on Google, Montagio has paved the way for discerning men to get suited up with style. A truly personalised experience, we deliver perfectly fitted bespoke suits, shirts and coats for business, weddings, formal and casual events. Our showrooms are visually packed with designs that inspire and 1,000s of fabrics, making it easy for you to get the look you want. Our difference? We won't let you walk out until we've tailored your perfect garment. It's personal. To experience the same red-carpet service, book your personal appointment today.
